TuffTorq K46 Rebuild

TuffTorq K46 Rebuild

05/31/2012 - 11 COMMENTS

There are these clips that require these pliers with the studs on the end. If I were more of a mechanic I would probably call it by the right name. You'll need these to get those spring clips off without them flying across the room and getting lost.

Two spacers below the plastic fan.

The new parts. Cylinder Block (Pump) kit and Cylinder Block Kit and new filter. Stay tuned on some of the following images for the other parts you should also order.

This bearing on the shaft by the brakes... get it. From TuffTorq it's about 5 bucks. From NAPA it's $24. Get it and swap it out whether or not you think you need it.

Also check your fan... and probably order a new one from TuffTorq. I believe around 10 bucks at TuffTorq, was $18 at the Deere Dealer.

My pile of bags of parts... Time to reassemble.

The case before reassembly. I didn't swab it out with a Q-Tip like some do. Nice wipe with the paper towels and we're ready to roll.

Here is the first bag of parts to go back in. Order this bearing thing pointed to with the red arrow. It was when I was going back in, I noticed it looked like some of the chrome was coming off some of the balls. I put it back in anyhow, and probably should have waited to get a new one from TuffTorq. It will be cheap, get this one and the other one which I think they are the same, so get both of these.

These shims go in first...

Then this block...

The bearing race jobber sits in here on top of the block (no washer half to that side).. I'm going with more detail here since I didn't do this part on the disassemble.

Matching side of the bearing goes on next. If you weren't being observant you might have missed that one side is cut to fit the ball bearings and the other side is flat. Flat side up.

The little spring in the earlier picture first, then the new part here...

Rebuild this just like it came apart on the other page of pictures. Perform a small miracle and get it all wedged / spring loaded back into it's 3D place and get the bolts tight. :-) Make sure it all goes in nice and the bearing near the brake seats right. You shouldn't be torquing it into place with the bolts. It should fit, then you gently snug up the bolts.

Put the differential back together as per the disassembly page. Grab the axels on each end and make sure you can't pull them out. Turn each one and see the assembly is working. Don't ask me for sure why I stress this part.. :-)

The middle gear part goes in place. Get that flat part sitting up because... if you don't, the other half of the case is going to be on a lump/bump and when you torq down the bolts you'll crack it. Or, at least that's my guess. Seems that would be bad.

Oil Filter back in place...

Magnet back...

My sack of bolts is ready and also the only reason I still have the right number of bolts. I used the ultra black gasket maker. I'm sure the blue or any number of products would work fine.

Clean both halves surfaces up, then apply the gasket maker. You don't need a lot.

The frame where the axel bolts on is getting some rust. I think that's 98% from using the fertilizer spreader on the back of the mower. Need to shine it up, put on some rust preventer paint.

Use this on the drill to prep for painting.

Shine up the axels...

Shined up, ready to paint.

Put the hanger brackets back on the main transmission assembly.

Fill it up with 5W50 Synthetic. Word is the original comes with 10 W 30 Dino oil. No wonder the units fail after a few years / hours. I put in about 2.2 quarts until it was filled about the bottom of the magnet holder.

See my fancy paint job? I got new nuts and lock washers since I couldn't find any Metric 8 nuts with the neopreme washer on them. Then for fun I put the old rusty nuts on as a lock-nut kinda thing.

Hook all the stuff back up just how we took it apart. Get the belt on and the belt guards.

Put the wheels back on, valve stems out in case you have any trouble with that. When I fired it up and tried to go, my pedal had NOTHING.

If I held it full forward, it would ever so often to a tiny lurch.

I used one foot for flinstone it backward out the garage. Out on the driveway I gently did a bit forward, a bit backward and in about 10 minutes I was fully functional and set to go. It feels nice and tight again now.

The next day I mowed with it and I'm fairly certain I'm back in business for a while.

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